A foggy morning quickly gave way to sunny blue skies as we left Monistrol–a quaint village nestled along the Allier river. We crossed the river and began ascending the other side of the valley through columnar basalt formations along the trail.

Looking back across the Allier River to Montrisol village

Basalt columnar formations above the Allier River near Montrisol

We’ve got a great group of randonneurs–no whiners since all of us are experienced hikers. The most perfect weather is almost certainly a positive influence on our temperaments and moods. Cool, foggy mornings rapidly give way to sunny, blue skies that, when our trail ascends to ridgetops, our guide, David, points to our interim and day’s end destinations But we are sure that, for our benefit, he says we have fewer kilometers to walk than we really do — a little trail psychology!

Out of Montrisol, as we approach the site of the Chappelle de la Madeleine, I look back across the Allier River valley to where we were the day prior. The ancient tiny church and tower stick up on a pinnacle and St Privat d’Allier is also visible.  This was our gourmet lunch site the day before.

The wall bellfry church on a pinnacle overlooking the Allier River valley.

Approaching the Chappelle de la Madeleine

Every church we pass has a cross and there is a tradition to place a pebble at the base of the cross. The pebble holds all of your trouble and worries so by leaving it at the cross this action frees you or others in your remembrance of them from the carrying these emotional burdens.

We stopped for lunch at Madam Josie’s farm — a welcome oasis along our route where the Madam provides meals to trekking pilgrims. Everything is made from ingredients she raises (chickens, eggs, pork, berries) and makes herself. I had the most exquisite mushroom omelet made with local mushrooms – crispy around the edges with just a little cheese. Magnufique!!  Now you see it…

My magnificent mushroom omelet at Madam Josie’s farm

Now you don’t…Yummm!

Not a scrap left of my omellete!

Eggs haven’t been routinely offered for breakfast at our lodgings, so I’ve been craving protein to keep the old legs working. Madam Josie’s omelette restored my energy immensely! She also served us a blueberry tart that everyone wolfed — big smiles of satiation around the table revealed purpley-blue teeth and lips from the berries…coincidentally, the same color as Madam Josie’s pixie-cut hair! ;0)

Madam Josie’s menu de jour

Our destination for the day, Saugues, is the legendary ground zero from 1764 – 1767 when an extraordinarily giant and fierce wolf (akin to the dire wolves in the ‘Game of Thrones’ hbo series) that is said to have killed several hundred people–mostly women and young children. There are wolf images all over the village, including large, white wolf-paw prints leading into the center square.

Descending into Saugues.

Our hotel in Saugues.

The cheese trolly after dinner this evening

Tomorrow — Saugues to Les Faux…