La Ferme aux fromages (cheese farm) laboratory in Le Falzet
My apologies for going incommunicado, but dependable and robust WiFi has been nonexistent the last several days. This post will summarize the last five days of our hike that concluded in the village of Conques. We overnighted there then rode a bus the 120 miles to Toulouse, where the group disbursed to their various destinations. Sue, Bonnie, and I picked up our rental car and made our way 80 miles north to St Cirq Lapopie to rest and recuperate for four days. WiFi connection has been limited to nil these last days – hence, the reason I am playing catch-up now in the Toulouse Airport as we await our flight to Paris. The journey home has begun. Hope I can recount the important high points for you.
Sept 11 – Saugues to Les Faux (Bigose):
Between Saugues and Les Faux, we stopped for lunch in Le Falzet at a family farm that produces milk and makes several different cow’s milk cheeses. It’s a rather romantic story how they evolved into making cheese – the woman was working in an office when she met and fell in love with the farmer who owned this beautiful farm with many cows. They married and had three children. Along the way, the French government instituted a tax on milk which narrowed the farmer’s profit margin so he and his bride turned to making cheese that was not taxed. They invested 80,000 Euros in the cheese-making equipment and sanitary laboratory and had many years of trials and unsuccessful batches of cheese. The wife, during these years attended classes to learn all about the chemistry and physics of successful cheese-making and they now produce the most exquisite cheese and are very successful. With the upsurge in pilgrims and hikers on the Saint-Jacques de-Compostole trail, they serve a wonderful, nourishing lunch of salad, a tray of several cheeses, fresh baguette, fromage blanc with homemade preserves, AND topped it all off with prune-raisin bread pudding — all accompanied by wine, of course.
Fromage blanc at lunch in Le Falzet, Sept 11
Our accommodations outside Le Faux – Bigose – the night of Sept 11
Our ‘suite’ at Bigose – huge yet cozy.
Sept 12 ~ Les Faux to Montgros
Overcast skies, cool temps and, later, wind were our companions this day as we climbed to the highest elevation of the trip. The geology changed from basalt flows to granite and then a mix of both.
Our lunch stop this day was in Reitort d’Aubrac at yet another farm and ‘Gite’ where yurts were available for weary hikers.
Our lunch stop, Reiutort d’Aubrac village on Thurs, Sept 12
Our lunch was entirely vegetarian (as were our hosts) that consisted of lentil cakes, hot rice, and a delicious sauce of tomatoes, garlic, and herbs. Dessert and local herb tea completed the meal.
Lentil cakes, rice, and sauce of fresh tomatoes, garlic ~ complete protein and delicious!
And, of course, wine for fortification. The weather today was overcast, windy, with temp around 9-10 C (48-50 F), so the hot lunch inside was a welcome respite.
Local herbal mint-flavored tea was served and helped fend off the chilly weather.
Back to the trail…
I dubbed this guy the “Headless Hiker” since he zoomed by me as I concentrated on the ground; his tattoo caught my eye and I quickly whipped out the camera and snapped the photo.
House-sizes granite boulders were the theme of today’s journey through starkly beautiful landscape.
A very, very old stone outdoor eating area
More mechanically-weathered granite boulders enroute.
This stop was amazing in the historical sense, as it was property held and developed in the 12th century by soldiers later known as the Knights Templar, until their wealth and power were deemed a threat by King Philip IV in 1307, when he had them executed. The farm and lands are now run as a co-op by local residents and funded by, ironically, the French government.
House-sizes granite boulders were the theme of today’s journey through starkly beautiful landscape.
The pilgrimage path is well marked — at the very least with the white and red stripes shown here.
Our Inn in Montgros – Maison de la Rosalie. Our room is the very top left dormer window.
Before dinner, David, our French guide, took a few of us willing to brave more hiking and weather to a nearby waterfall that cascades over columnar basalt.
Luscious mushroom soup, our first course for dinner.
Sept 13 ~ Montgros (outside Nasbinals) to St Chely d’Aubrac:
Marker on stone wall for the pilgrimage pathway.
Enroute to St Chely d’Aubrac, we stopped at this very old (possibly 12th century?) church built outside the walled village of St Come d’Olt, where we stopped for lunch and to see the unusual Gothic (16th century) church with a spiral shaped spire.
12th(?) century church just outsude the walled village of St Come d’Olt.
Lunch here in St Come d’Olt was a gastronomic event!
French food is always fresh, yummy, healthy, and the portions have been surprisingly huge! I had expectations that portions would be “European” scale — i.e., way smaller than American portions. Au contraire! We were constantly challenged to finish the meals prepared for us. Hiking 15 to 20 km per day no doubt aided our consumptive capabilities because clean plates were the norm.
Gillian’s fromage soup (first course)…
My mushroom omelet and salad — main course…
One dessert choice– tarte au poivre witha chocolate layer — YUM! …Or…
…a GIANT wedge of three-berry tarte…
The Nash-Kay sisters devour the HUGE three-berry tarte…
Johanna Kay and sister, Dede Nash fight for bites!
Map of pilgrimage paths carved in travertine ~ at the church at St Come d’Olt
Now to walk off a bit of the lunch calories, we strolled through the village taking in the Gothic spiral spire while searcing for a potable water source before continuing down the trail for the afternoon.
Resting on the steps of the Gothic church. Note the shell pattern in the stone courtyard.
The spiral-shaped spire of the 16th century Gothic church in St Come d’Olt
Horse chestnut fallen from tree above — likes like spiny sea urchin
Our hotel in St Chely d’Aubrac
If it’s Friday…it must be St Chely d’Aubrac!
This day was a 20 km hike day — needless to say we were all pooped out pilgrims, anxious for showers and cold beers!
Greeted by the speed hikers in St Chely d’Aubrac just a few steps from hot showers!
This guy looks waaaay more tired than me, oui?
The view of the local grocery store from our room in S Chely d’Aubrac. They had a deli and we all picked up snack for the hike.
Sept 14 ~ St Chely d’Aubrac to Estaing via St Come d’Olt and Espalion villages. Another 20 km hiking day ahead but there was so many sensory experiences to enjoy to mask the muscle aches and tired feet.
Espalion ~ a medieval commune. The bridge shown is 11th century construction.
Espalion is apparently where SCUBA diving was invented — or so the story goes. There is a statue on the shores of the Lot River that depicts a deep-sea bell diver.
SCUBA diver statute on the shores of the Lot River in Espalion
A castle in Estaing undergoing restoration. Our destination today, Estaing is the site of the annual festival of St Fleuret that commemorates Saint Jacques and other pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago
Sept 15 ~ Estaing to Conques — the final day of trekking.
Tiny slot window in the narrow stairwell of a church tower.
Senergues village on the way to Conques. It was Sunday and five local women were singing hymns and contemporary songs (like “Oh Happy Day”) in the chapel.
Village map of Senergues as we enter the town. These maps were common to most villages we visited.
This little guy was happy to share our lunch leftovers and nuzzle noses.
Getting close to Conques
We made it! A 16 km trek day.
Harlene – our 80-year-old inspirational hiker. She is amazing!
This sticker was on a car parked in Conques — wish I could have found one to buy!
Conques cathedral seen on our approach into town
The streets were too narrow for our bus that carries the luggage to our final desination each day so we were schlepping our bags downhill to the hotel.
Sue S, Sue W, Bonnie, and I wolfed down some lunch and beverage before meeting back up with the group to say goodbye to our French guides and driver, David and Gerard.
Bonnie with a beer -drinking aide. I’m sure it made the brew taste so much better!
The Cathedral of Sainte Foy (Faith) was built from 1087 – 1107 A.D. The ornate header above the entrance tells the story of the execution of Faith of Agen, the young girl that tended to the poor and marginalized Christians. She was tortured and burned alive for her Christian faith around 303 A.D. Her relics were brought to Conques in 866 and still reside in the cathedral.
Sainte Foy Cathedral in Conques. Gerard provided us a tour and historical facts about this magnificent cathedral
This gate, called “The Grills” inside the cathedral is made from the shackles (fetters) worn by Christian prisoners.
Conques
It’s hard to believe the week’s hike is over and we’ve trekked nearly 80 kilometers. The 15 women that comprise our group have all contributed in some way to making this journey rich and memorable. We all come from different backgrounds, experiences, and locations around the US.
Saying our good-byes at the Toulouse Airport September 16. Bon Voyage to all as we disperse to all parts of the globe. [Our AW guide, Gillian Arthur]
Globe Crawler 